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CASA CURIEL


Leading Design: Liang architects
Lighting Design: Yaank lighting design










左:第一代传承人Ortensia Curiel女士
右:Trieste高定时装屋

At the end of the 19th century, in the time of Princess Sissi, culture and the arts flourished, and the famous Italian port city of Trieste boasted a huge number of bookshops and theatres, which kept many of Europe's intellectuals, artists and dignitaries coming back for more. Next to the bookshop of the great poet Umberto Saba, there was the tailor's shop of the famous Ortensia Curiel. In the beginning, Ortensia made dresses for social occasions for her lady friends. One of her favourites was a floor-length dress with a sweetheart neckline, which was the basis for the first Italian little black dress, the tubino, which means ‘pipe’ in Italian, a figurative reference to the wrap-around silhouette of the dress. --This is where the Italian aesthetic of the little black dress distinguishes itself from the French little black dress in terms of style - beyond elegance, there is an additional layer of flavour.
In 1945, Ortensia's niece, Gigliola Curiel, took over the mantle and expanded the clothing business to the fashion capital Milan. In the hot atmosphere of the post-war economic recovery, CURIEL was inundated with custom-made business. One of its most prestigious clients was the legendary La Scala, one of the world's three great opera houses, where CURIEL's couture costumes could be seen in both ‘La Scala’ and ‘Aida’. Mariapia Fanfani, Princess Sofia d'Asburgo of Austria and Silvana Pampanini, the director of Rome, were all guests of CURIEL.
In 1970, Gigliola's daughter, Raffaella Curiel, continued the family tradition and led CURIEL in the golden age of the rise of modern Italian fashion: from the 60s to the 90s, Raffaella brought together Velasquez, Vermeer, Klimt, Schiele, Balla, Victor Hugo and Frida Kahlo, In the 60s and 90s, Raffaella combined paintings by Velasquez, Vermeer, Klimt, Schiele, Balla, Victor Hugo and Frida Kahlo with high fashion - something that no designer had ever done before, and which, in those days, required a great deal of boldness and knowledge. As a result, Raffaella has been described by the press as the ‘intellectual of fashion’, and on any given occasion she has been able to talk to a wide range of political and cultural personalities from different countries, including Princess Diana, the former First Lady of the United States, Hillary Clinton, the Portuguese politician, the famous actress Maria Barroso, the Bvlgari family, and many others. Princess Diana, former US First Lady Hillary Clinton, Portuguese politician and actress Maria Barroso, as well as legendary designer Marina Bulgari, a member of the Bulgari family, are all close friends of Raffaella. This stems from her love and absorption of different cultures, especially those of North Africa, Russia, the Middle East and the Far East.Raffaella made CURIEL the pinnacle of Italian couture ALTA MODA.
In 1998, Raffaella's daughter Gigliola, the youngest member of the Curiel family, joined the family business, leading CURIEL to a more diversified and international direction.
As the only empire in the world to be built and passed on by four generations of women, CURIEL gave birth to the oldest little black dress in contemporary clothing history, and has used the strength of four generations to create the fashion classics we see today. If quiet luxury brands represent the ‘la dolce far niente ’ side of the Italian leisure class, then CURIEL's distinctly feminine brands represent their ‘la dolce vita ’ side. CURIEL's feminine brand represents the other side of their ‘la dolce vita’: a spirit of enjoyment.

十九世纪末,茜茜公主的时代,文化和艺术蓬勃发展,意大利著名的港口城市Trieste拥有数量庞大的书店和剧院,让欧洲众多知识分子、艺术家和政要流连忘返。紧挨大诗人Umberto Saba的书店,坐落着名门之后Ortensia Curiel女士的裁缝铺。起先,Ortensia只是为身边的淑女名媛朋友们打造出席各种社交场合的礼服裙。其中,一款爱心领的曳地礼服尤其受欢迎,这就是意大利最早的小黑裙——TUBINO的雏形。TUBINO在意大利语中的意思是“管道”,形象地代指裙装包身的廓形——这也是意式美学下的小黑裙在风格上区别于法式小黑裙的所在——优雅之外,更多了一层风情。
1945年,Ortensia的侄女Gigliola Curiel继承其衣钵,将服装生意扩张到时尚重镇米兰。在战后经济复苏的火热氛围中,CURIEL的定制业务络绎不绝。其中最负盛名的客人,来自世界三大歌剧院之一——传奇的La Scala( 斯卡拉剧院),无论在《茶花女》还是《阿依达》中,都能看到CURIEL出品的高定戏服。La Scala的影响力,让意大利共和国首位第一夫人Mariapia Fanfani、奥地利公主Sofia d'Asburgo、 罗马女导演Silvana Pampanini都成为CURIEL的座上宾。
1970年,Gigliola的女儿Raffaella Curiel延续了家族传统,并在现代意大利时装崛起的黄金年代带领CURIEL打出了一片天地。60至90年代,Raffaella将Velasquez、Vermeer、Klimt、Schiele、Balla、Victor Hugo 以及 Frida Kahlo等艺术大师的画作与高定时装相结合 —— 在这之前,没有任何设计师这样做过,在那个年代,这样的跨界合作需要相当的胆魄和知识储备。因此,Raffaella被媒体称为“时尚界的知识分子”,无论在任何场合,她都能和各国各类政治文化界名士侃侃而谈,戴安娜王妃、美国前第一夫人Hillary Clinton、葡萄牙政治家、著名演员Maria Barroso、宝格丽家族成员、传奇设计师Marina Bulgari都是Raffaella的挚友。而这来源于她对不同文化尤其是北非、俄罗斯、中东与远东文化的热爱与吸收。Raffaella让CURIEL成为了意大利高级定制ALTA MODA的巅峰。
1998年,Curiel家族中最年轻的成员Raffaella的女儿Gigliola也加入到这个家族的事业中,带领CURIEL走向更多元化、国际化的道路。
作为世界上唯一由四代女性缔造和传承的帝国,CURIEL孕育了当代服装史中最古老的小黑裙,又用四代人的力量,打造了我们今天看到的时尚经典。如果说quiet luxury(静奢)品牌们代表的是意大利有闲阶层们“la dolce far niente(无所事事的快乐)”的一面,那么CURIEL这样女性特质鲜明的品牌,则代表着他们“la dolce vita(甜蜜生活)”的另一面:一种乐享精神。

As an Italian haute couture brand with 120 years of history, CURIEL has created an immersive experience space integrating centuries-old heritage and modern aesthetics in Beijing's China World Trade Centre with the core concept of ‘the elegance of interlacing time and space’. yAANK uses light as a pen, and through the design thinking of collision and fusion, interaction and perception, the brand's DNA, spatial narrative and future sustainability are woven into a delicate music of light and shadow. YAANK uses light as a pen, through collision and fusion, interaction and perception design thinking, to weave brand genes, spatial narratives and future sustainability into a delicate movement of light and shadow.
CURIEL has a unique interpretation of ‘La Dolce Vita’, the Italian art of living, and condenses the craftsmanship inherited from four generations of the family into each piece. The Beijing flagship shop ‘CASA CURIEL’ is not only a retail space, but also an aesthetic bridge between Chinese and Italian cultures - from the romantic genes of Milan to the contemporary charm of Beijing, from the replica and collection of centuries-old antique dresses to the exploration of future lifestyles. From Milan's romantic DNA to Beijing's contemporary flavour, from the reproduction and collection of centuries-old antique dresses to the exploration of future lifestyles, the brand uses elegance as a link between the past, present and future. Here, time is folded into a star track, history is condensed into traces of light, and elegance overflows in an invisible manner in every inch of breath.


作为拥有120年历史的意大利高级定制品牌,CURIEL以“时空交错的优雅”为核心理念,于北京国贸商城打造了一座融合百年传承与现代美学的沉浸式体验空间。YAANK以光为笔,通过碰撞与融合、交互与感知的设计思维,将品牌基因、空间叙事与未来可持续性编织成一曲精致的光影乐章。
CURIEL对“La Dolce Vita”的意式生活艺术有独到的诠释,将四代家族传承的匠心凝结于每一件作品。北京旗舰店“CASA CURIEL 蔻蕊之家”不仅是零售空间,更是一座跨越中意文化的美学桥梁——从米兰的浪漫基因到北京的当代气韵,从百年古董裙的复刻珍藏到未来生活方式的探索,品牌以优雅为纽带,串联起过去、当下与未来的叙事。这里,时间被折叠成星轨,历史被凝练为光痕,优雅以无形之姿漫溢于每一寸呼吸之间。


The flagship shop uses the concept of ‘cultural star map’ to decode the vast history of the brand into a poetic expression of the space. The customised crystal ball is made of glass to reconstruct the classic shape, and the halo of light is projected onto the ceiling like a ring of stars, appearing and disappearing with the movement of the viewing angle, giving the space a breathable sense of animation.
The facade is made of metal to create the texture of twinkling stars, and the star spots seeping out from the brushed texture are like the stars bursting out at the beginning of the universe, which is a metaphor for the brand's 120 years of history and heritage of craftsmanship, each star is the scale of craftsmanship of a generation of inheritors, and each twinkle is the eternal echo of the classic works in the river of time.


旗舰店以“文化星图”为概念,将浩瀚的品牌历史解码为空间的诗意表达。定制水晶球以玻璃材质重构经典造型,光晕如星环般投射至天花,随视角移动若隐若现,赋予空间呼吸般的灵动感。
外立面由金属材质打造出闪烁星辰的纹理,拉丝肌理间渗出的星点光斑,如宇宙诞生之初迸发的星子,隐喻品牌120年历史传承的匠心脉络,每一颗星芒都是一代传承人的匠心刻度,每一次闪烁皆是经典之作在时光长河中的永恒回响。

Light is not only the shaper of space, but also the translator of brand spirit. The design is based on the principle of the ‘invisible hand of craftsmanship’, and the aesthetic resonance is realised through three dimensions:
Light is not only the shaper of space, but also the translator of brand spirit. The design is based on the principle of the ‘invisible hand of craftsmanship’, and the aesthetic resonance is realised through three dimensions:
Entering the home of Keri, six vintage dresses from the classic Tulip collection are presented in the quiet light. These treasures, created by Gigliola Curiel, the second generation of the brand's heirloom, demonstrate CURIEL's precise interpretation of modernity and romance. The lighting restores the texture of silk and embroidery over the years, and the depth of the shadows deliberately strengthens the narrative of the folds, allowing history to whisper in the silence, a true classic that dares to let time grow at the junction of light and dark.


光不仅是空间的塑造者,更是品牌精神的转译者。设计以“隐形的工艺之手”为原则,通过三种维度实现美学共鸣:
步入蔻蕊之家,6件经典的 Tulip 系列古董裙于静谧的灯光之下悉数呈现。这些珍品出自品牌第二代传承人 Gigliola Curiel 之手,彰显了 CURIEL 对摩登与浪漫的精准诠释。灯光还原丝绸与刺绣的岁月质感,阴影深度刻意强化褶皱的叙事性,让历史在静谧中低语,真正的经典,是敢于让时光在明暗交界处生长。

The track system in this area is hidden in the ceiling moulding, responding to the needs of future special exhibitions, leaving only a halo of light seeping out from the gap of the grille, so that the installation and the building become one. This is a contemporary illustration of the ‘timelessness of the classics’ - light is not noisy, it humbly retreats to the background, but allows the magnificence of history to shine more and more brightly in a precise restraint.


此区域轨道系统的隐匿于天花造型中,应对未来特展需求,仅留光晕从格栅间隙渗出,让装置与建筑浑然一体。这是对“经典永恒性”的当代注解——光不喧哗,它以谦逊的姿态退居幕后,却让历史的瑰丽在精确的克制中愈发耀眼。


VIP Lounge Oriental Philosophy: The ceiling bamboo moulding uses soft light diffuse reflection technology to present the concept of ‘heaven is round, earth is square’, the light source is hidden in the ceiling structure, and the halo is like the flow of moonlight, which is a homage to the traditional oriental craftsmanship, and echoes the eclectic aesthetics of the third-generation inheritor, Raffaella Curiel, as well as paying homage to the local culture. A tribute to the local culture.


VIP Lounge东方哲思:天花竹编造型以柔光漫反射技术呈现“天圆地方”意境,光源隐藏于天花结构中,光晕如月华流淌,致敬东方传统工艺,亦呼应第三代传承人Raffaella Curiel兼容并蓄的美学;同时向在地文化致敬。



CURIEL SALON: The salon area adopts colourful ambient light, supplemented by hidden light sources to bring out a warm atmosphere, restoring the 18th century Italian salon's cultural tradition of ‘light gathering ideas’, and stimulating the collision of inspirations.


CURIEL SALON思想星火:沙龙区采用色彩氛围光,辅以暗藏光源烘托暖调氛围,还原18世纪意大利沙龙“光聚思想”的文化传统,激发灵感碰撞

Functional and experiential light rhythms:
Attraction:
The starlight wall in the outer area and the crystal star ring at the entrance form a ‘visual gravitational field’, where cool starbursts intertwine with warm gold ambient light to attract pedestrians from the hustle and bustle of the city to the secret world of elegance;
Transformation:
The retail area adopts a magnetic track system to flexibly and accurately illuminate the details of the dresses, and the contrast between light and shadow highlights the craftsmanship of haute couture when combined with the laying of the base light; the hidden structure reduces the sense of spatial fragmentation, and the individual spaces are different but harmonious with a unified tone;
Immersion:
The VIP room maintains soft and comfortable illumination through double-layer soft film + indirect lighting, allowing guests to feel the quiet power of time precipitation while flipping through a century-old collection of books.


功能与体验的光节奏:
吸引:外摆区星光墙与入口水晶星环构成“视觉引力场”,冷调星斑与暖金环境光交织,吸引行人从都市喧嚣步入优雅秘境;
转化:零售区采用磁吸轨道系统,灵活精准打亮裙装细节,配合底光的铺设,光影对比度突显高级定制工艺;隐匿的结构减少空间的割裂感,各个空间有差异但统一基调和谐;
沉浸:VIP室通过双层柔光膜+间接照明,维持柔和舒适照度,让宾客在翻阅百年典藏书籍时,感受时光沉淀的静谧力量。

Continuing Raffaella Curiel's tradition of bringing together artists, poets, politicians and other celebrities in her home, at CURIEL SALON guests can enjoy a Michelin-starred team's culinary creations while experiencing CURIEL's unique interpretation of the art of Italian living at La Dolce Vita, as if in a dialogue that is grounded in the present but extends into the past. A dialogue between the present and the past.


延续Raffaella Curiel 在家中汇聚艺术家、诗人、政治家等社会名流的优雅传统,在 CURIEL SALON 内,宾客可以享受到米其林星级团队匠心打造的美食,同时体验 CURIEL 对 La Dolce Vita 意式生活艺术的独到诠释,仿佛置身于一场立足当下而延伸至过去的对话。


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